Part 19 "Tamale Quest"

Michelle writes: My house mother, Dora Luz, recommended a place to me after I praised the tamales she made for St Valentine's Day. The new place had tamales, but not as good as Dora Luz's; wrapped in a banana leaf to steam, they are very moist.

So, I walked into this place that looks tiny from the street. Inside, there was a counter and a glass display with pastries and a table for two in the corner of the room, which was about 8 feet wide.

      Apparently this place is a local secret, because you wouldn't know they served food just by walking past. I stood there as a couple guys came out of the back, which you can't see because of the dim lighting and partitions. They unhooked a chain that spanned the narrow access. I said I wanted a tamale, which someone had to interpret for the old lady who runs the place. Then the guy indicated that I should go back behind the chain, and there were two tables: one full, the other mostly full. 

      I stood there until a guy seated indicated to sit down at an open chair. As I sat there, the gal next to me decided to talk to me. I was lost because of her rapid speech, but she saw my glazed look and slowed down and then asked if anyone knew English. Luckily, there was a young girl who did.  We started to talk, with my limited Spanish and her limited English. 

      I told the table of people that the mother of the house where I stay told me to come. (I'm sure they were wondering how I found the place), and I wanted a tamale. They were all very gracious, and when I said I was a volunteer with God's Child they knew of the project, and a man thanked me for coming to Guatemala to help his people.  I said that I had worked at Casa Jackson that morning, so we talked about the ages of children and how they stay there until they get gordo (fat). 

      When those people left, they gave me some hugs. Then the conversation continued with another couple from Guatemala City who had come to Antigua for the day because it is tranquilo here. Then I talked to a university student studying business. He was from up north by Santiago Ixcan, a Mayan from Quiche. Together, we stumbled through our communication. He hopes to start a business exporting cardamom, coffee, and textiles, which are what I plan to bring back as well. 

      This is the best lesson: trying to talk with people on the streets! So, I had my tamale, frijoles, (can't believe I'm ordering beans when I eat out, so you know what I'll be eating when I come back to the states), and avocado. Everyone at the table had an avocado, fresh and perfect! All this and a softdrink for 20 Q or $2.50 and a Spanish lesson to boot! Everyone else had a bowl of soup, with a side of rice, avocado, carrot, squash. I'm sure that was the deal of the day. I'm going back there again.

      I hadn't realized that tamales are really a special occasion food, because of all the prep time. Dora Luz usually prepares them at Christmas and then for Valentine's Day. I baked bread for the family, so maybe it was a sharing of specialties. I made cinnamon rolls, oatmeal-and-raisin bread, and a bread with sauteed onions and peppers and chili powder. It was a big hit and shared with Dora's four children and their families. I took some to work as well. Dora Luz is an excellent cook, so I am very fortunate to live in her house.

I had another housemate for three days. Roberto is Canadian and has been working with a Canadian NGO since 2007. He may take a grant writing position with God's Child. It was interesting talking to someone about life here and working with the government systems--local and national--in Honduras and Guatemala. That's another whole story! 

Roberto said life in Antigua is like being at a resort and that Dora Luz's house was very nice with a huge well-equipped kitchen, so check out those pix again!!  He said he wants to hear from me after I've been to Santiago Ixcan. He said that you can tell this is a tourist town as it is clean with good streets. I'm in for an eye opener, I think.

This vendor is serving molé with plantain. In Guatemala, the molé is sweet, so you can imagine bananas in chocolate sauce. Definitely worth the $1.20!

I walked around town a little with Roberto, and he taught me a great response to the street vendors: "solomente mira, un voluntario," only looking, a volunteer. They back right off, knowing you don't have the money of a tourist and are here to help.