Part 38 "Lenten Celebration"

Michelle writes:
Greetings! This is my last morning at Lake Atitlan. I do love Santiago and will miss it, but I have another unique experience just around the corner in the Ixcan. Kathy Snider flies into Guatemala today, and my last month will be spent with her in another corner of this beautiful country.

Today, I was wakened from my slumber by festive Latin music at 5 AM. It is now 6:30, and it is still going strong. Vocals were added after 6:00. I called Julie, a member of the symphony  in North Dakota, knowing she'd appreciate this special Central American cultural treat. 

I'm guessing it is connected with Lent. Lent and Easter are very grand celebrations here.  While in Antigua, I watched the procession on Sunday. Churches from the smaller villages around Antigua rotate the privilege of hosting the weekend procession. The grand Easter procession commences from Antigua.

There are floats with Christ carrying the cross, Christ being scourged, the angel appearing to Mary, Mary and other saints, are carried on the shoulders of men dressed in special robes, most often purple. They proceed up and down the streets taking different routes each week. 

Homeowners decorate the street in front of their homes. They first use water to cleanse, and for some that is all they do. Others will scatter a carpet of green pine needles and then various flowers, whole or petals, in beautiful designs.

Banners and men dressed as centurions lead the way.

The orchestra, in black suit and tie, follows, the percussion playing a cadence between the classic dirge and march selections.

The wooden floats are carried on the shoulders of the men, approximately 25 on each side.  The Blessed Virgin is carried by women dressed in black, skirts and mantillas. Each group bears the load for one block before switching. Taller individuals carry the floats earlier in the procession, each group having 2 to 3 rotations. 

Street vendors follow with homemade dolls dressed in purple robes, cotton candy, balloons, plastic toys, etc.  After the procession has passed, the city crew follows, sweeping up the scattered pine needles and flowers.

Santiago, a much smaller Mayan community, has its own twist to the procession. A single bass drum played the cadence followed by a small choir of a dozen women. 

Several women carried candles protected from the wind with a banana leaf shield. 

Men followed, throwing back straight shots of the local moonshine. They celebrate Maximon, the Mayan god of the underworld, who symbolizes male sexual virility and brings rain to fertilize the earth. He's known as the saint of gamblers and drunkards and is thought to give wealth and worldly success to his followers. Santiago is one of the few towns that continues this Maximon tradition. 


Small floats followed, each carried by 4 to 8 men. Some homeowners placed a table  with candles and a framed picture of Christ on the cross, flowers and pine needles, in front of their homes.

Enjoy your day, and listen for the music in your life.

P.S. I just asked Felipa, who told me the music today is due to a Catholic funeral. The music will last until the casket is carried to the cemetery this afternoon.